One of many water crossings in the French Creek Natural Area

Located in the heart of Custer State Park, the French Creek Natural Area offers almost a backcountry hiking experience. I say “almost” because there is no marked trail through the natural area and only primitive forms of travelling are allowed, such as walking and horseback riding; however, it’s not so remote as to actually be backcountry.

The natural area is 2,200 acres and follows the stream; this affords great wildlife viewing opportunities and many different types of vegetation, including poison ivy. Of course, your wildlife viewing may come in the form of figuring out how to circumvent the park’s buffalo herd crossing the stream where you also intended to cross, so use caution.

Since it is the French Creek Natural Area, expect to cross the stream many times. I highly recommend water-resistant shoes as the creek is higher this year than in some previous years – many stepping stones are submerged. Furthermore, I find hiking poles are helpful in keeping my balance while negotiating water crossings.

Primitive camping is allowed in the natural area, but campfires are prohibited, so if you want hot food, pack a stove. The stream offers fresh water, but remember that a fair amount of wildlife as well as horseback riders frequent the area, so you’ll need some type of water purification system unless you pack in all your own water. Lastly, if you intend to camp you must register at the trailhead.

This is a 12-mile route in its entirety, but of course you don’t have to hike the whole length. If you do plan to hike through but not camp, start early in the day to avoid being on the trail after dark. Remember that the trail is not marked and there are many water crossings; hiking in the dark would be dangerous. In fact, the day before I hiked there this summer, two hikers had been lost because they started hiking at 4:30 p.m., intending to hike the whole thing and only wearing tennis shoes and shorts. Brrr!

You can start from the east end trailhead located four miles south of the State Game Lodge on the Wildlife Loop Road or the west end trailhead located three miles from Blue Bell Lodge on CSP Road #4 at the French Creek Horse Camp. Note that this this a Centennail Trail trailhead as well; once you’ve hiked north on the Centennial Trail about half a mile, you’ll come to a fork, take the right fork which heads east. There’s a sign that reads Trail #1, this is for horseback riders, turn there. Otherwise you’ll keep heading north on the Centennial Trail.

Last summer I wrote about my experiences learning to canoe; well, I may have created a monster – me. I enjoyed canoeing so much that I decided I also need a kayak. So I’ve ordered my first kayak, and I’m ridiculously excited, can’t you tell?

 

What I find most appealing about kayaking is that I can easily strap it to the top of my car and go on a whim. If my canoe is near the water, I can manage it okay, but it’s 16 feet long and weighs 75 pounds, so it’s a bit unwieldy. So I guess the kayak represents freedom and the ability to be spontaneous. I’m already fantasizing about a sunrise paddle to the middle of Bismarck Lake at sunrise to enjoy a cup of coffee. I know, it’s only March, but I can dream, can’t I? It’s probably a good thing the kayak won’t be here for at least a month.

Today while washing windows, which is a very meditative activity – just ask the Karate Kid – I pondered on the fact that while people that visit us here at our home outside Custer profess to love the view we have and express envy that we live so close to nature, they never really want to venture outdoors. Yes, our view is lovely, but what drew us to this place wasn’t just that we could look at nature, we could actually experience it. However, most of our guests seem content to peer at it through the windows.

                                                                                         

I don’t expect that everyone who drops in for coffee on a Saturday morning is going to want to go for a hike, but for those who stay overnight or spend a weekend, I would think would want to at least take a walk. We live just over a mile from the Custer State Park boundary; we’re less than a mile as the crow flies from Bismarck Lake; about half a mile up the road is access to national forest land connected with the Norbeck Wildlife Preserve and Black Elk Wilderness. For some reason, it doesn’t draw our guests as I had assumed.

 

Even barring those excursions due to time constraints, there is a pond across the road from our house. If you stand at the edge of our front yard and throw a rock you can hit the water; I point this out to illustrate that it’s very close. There is an excellent view of it from our living room, but less than one in 10 people actually will walk over to it for a better look. It’s the home of ducks, geese, herons (well, their lunch spot rather than home), turtles, and frogs but few people seem to want a closer view, and no one has asked to go out in our canoe.

 

What has happened to our collective curiosity? Are we so lacking in vigor and imagination that we can’t muster the energy to go outdoors even when the opportunity presents itself? There is so much nature to enjoy, but I worry about its future if the public remains so apathetic.

 

Labor Day usually marks the end of summer for most people, though the equinox isn’t until Sept. 22. If the last few days are any indication, fall is here. While the songbirds have left, or are in the process of flying south, it may seem quieter outdoors; however, if you listen, you’ll be able to hear the sounds of autumn.

 

As waterfowl gather, they seem to “talk” to each other more. The ducks and geese at the pond by my house have been quacking and honking quite a bit lately. As these birds begin to congregate before heading south later this fall, you’ll be able to hear them a great deal. My favorite fall bird sound is that of migrating Sandhill Cranes. Their guttural crowing is unmistakable once you’ve learned to identify it; when you hear it look up – way up – because they fly very high.

 

I’ve also noticed an increase in the coyotes’ howling lately. The pups are growing up and learning to be “big coyotes” and spend more time talking amongst themselves. Whereas they were pretty quiet all summer, recent nights and early mornings have been filled with yipping. If you happen to hear coyotes, stop what you’re doing and listen because they’ll howl for a few minutes and then abruptly quit.

 

Lastly, the rarest sound of fall for most people, but tremendously exciting, is the bugle of the bull elk. With a mind-boggling range of sounds, rutting bulls break into song every fall to attract cow elk. I’ve been listening lately and haven’t heard them yet, but with the advent of cooler weather, the rut is right around the corner. Custer State Park and Wind Cave National Park are probably your best bets for hearing elk bugle, but there are elk throughout the Black Hills. Early evening and early morning are the best times to listen. Be sure not to go too close to the elk – just listen, don’t interfere.

For an up-close view of the spires along the Needles Highway, there is no better trail than the Cathedral Spires Trail in Custer State Park. Rather than a more distant all-encompassing view of the granite formations, this trail leads you about the bases of them. Glancing upward at these giants gives you a much better sense of scale as to their spectacular size. Compared to hiking Harney or Little Devil’s Tower, where you feel on top of the world, hiking this trail humbles you.

 

The trail is fairly short, 1.5 miles one way, and does not connect to any other trails. While rated as a strenuous trail by the park, it truly doesn’t seem that difficult. There are a couple of steep spots, but there is also a fair amount of trail that is quite level. A nice feature of this trail is the level, open ground at the end where you can enjoy a picnic amongst the spires.

 

While hiking, remember to look upward once in awhile. This is a unique view of the spires, so take advantage of it. Furthermore, you may very well see climbers scaling the granite walls. Rather than appearing as specks from afar, you can clearly see them and watch their progress. Who knows, it may inspire you take up rock climbing yourself!

 

The Cathedral Spires Trail is located 2.5 miles east of Sylvan Lake on the Needles Highway.

Want a great view of Harney Peak and the Cathedral Spires? Then hike Little Devil’s Tower in Custer State Park. This unusual granite formation offers spectacular 360-degree views of the surrounding area, giving you the best view of the spires from above. (Another close-up view of the spires is available from the Cathedral Spires trail, but we’ll leave that discussion for another day.)

 

There are two options for starting your hike depending on how much time you want to spend. Since the tower is on Trail 4 in the Harney system, you can start at Sylvan Lake. Make sure you’re on Trail 4 and not Trail 9 though! Starting from the lake adds some mileage and time to your hike, probably about half an hour. Another trailhead is located one mile east of Sylvan Lake on Needles Highway; this shorter route leads you straight up to the spur trail to Little Devil’s Tower. Remember that this trail is located on Trail 4 to Harney, so watch for the sign telling you which fork to take up to Little Devil’s Tower.

 

Most of the trail is rated as moderate, steady climbs but not too steep, until the end. The last part of the trail to the summit is quite strenuous. To gain the summit, you must climb rock, which is steep and can be a little slippery. Good shoes are very important to keep your footing at this point!

 

Binoculars are fun to have on this hike since you are afforded such a birds-eye view of the spires, you can watch climbers ascend and descend. Take plenty of water since the last part of the trail is tough, you’ll need to rehydrate. And the summit is often windy, so it will feel cooler up there, a sweatshirt will feel good.

The Black Elk Wilderness is South Dakota’s only designated wilderness area; it’s surrounded by Custer State Park as well as the Norbeck Wildlife Preserve. Because of its remote location, you can enjoy some of the quietest hiking in the Black Hills. Furthermore, it’s not open to mountain bikes or any type of mechanized travel, so it’s just hikers and horseback riders.

 

The area is named for Black Elk, a Lakota holy man, whose story is told through John Neihardt in the luminous book Black Elk Speaks. This area of the Black Hills held special significance for Black Elk since he was taken to the summit of Harney Peak in his great vision. This vision was a sign that he was to be a medicine man for his people. So please know that when you spend time here, it is a very special place.

 

The 13,426 acre area hosts 12 trails within its boundaries. Other trails within Custer State Park and the Norbeck Wildlife Preserve will give hikers great views of the wilderness as well. The U.S. Forest Service has an excellent trail map available at any information station; I would highly recommend one if you intend to spend time here since several of the trailheads aren’t where most people are used to going.

 

The wilderness has too many trails to adequately cover in one piece, so I’m only focusing on the Lost Cabin #2 and Iron Creek #15 trails today. The Lost Cabin trail can be accessed either via the Harney Peak Trail #9 at Sylvan Lake or via the Palmer Creek trailhead on County Road T357, which branches off Highway 244 (this is the road that leads to Mt. Rushmore off Highway 16). If you start at either trailhead and hike to the end, then turn around and go back, you will have a hearty 10-mile hike. There are some steep hills on this trail, so it can be strenuous. I would recommend it for older children. You’ll get some stunning views of Harney and a great deal of solitude along the way. Compared to the Harney trails, this one is very quiet. We met only three other parties during the whole 10 miles.

 

The Iron Creek Trail is much less rigorous, but a little less accessible. The trailheads are on the Iron Mountain Road and at the very end of Forest Service Road 345. The trail is 2.4 miles long between the trailheads and is mostly level; however there are 11 water crossings as it runs along Iron Creek. The crossings aren’t difficult, but you might get your feet a bit wet. We met no one else along this trail, and hiking alongside the creek was delightful.

 

Because this is a designated wilderness area, there is self-registration at major trailheads. This provides the USFS with usage information. Only primitive forms of travel are allowed: no mountain bikes or strollers. To prevent congestion, group size should be limited to 25 people and animals combined. As always, leave no trace from your visit.

Ever since we moved to our Custer home, which is situated across the road from a pond, I wanted a canoe. Finally, after two years, I bought a used canoe this spring. Not that I knew how to canoe, but my desire silently paddle about the pond was strong. After I became proficient, I was pretty sure I’d haul the canoe to nearby Bismarck and Center Lakes and do more “serious” canoeing.

 

My 13-year-old daughter, who had been canoeing once at Outlaw Ranch, taught me how to canoe. Whereas I was little nervous about tipping it over and “landing in the drink,” she was very calm and happily took the bow position in the front. We both wear life jackets and are strong swimmers (perhaps not graceful, but strong), and the pond isn’t that deep, but it’s got a mucky bottom and a lot of algae – I had no desire to slog out of the pond looking like Medusa on a bad day. Well, we didn’t tip it, and pretty soon I got the hang of it. She was a great instructor.

 

I have yet to “seriously” canoe on a lake; it’s such fun just to paddle around here. Maybe we’ll get around to it yet this summer, but if not, we’re happy gliding about watching the ducks, geese, herons and trying to catch glimpses of the turtles.

Escape the crowds on the Harney trails and take a less-traveled route, Sunday Gulch. For some reason, the trails up Harney are always busy, but nearby Sunday Gulch is much less populated. The trailhead is at Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park; follow the trail around the lake back behind the dam and there you’ll see the trailhead sign.

 

The gulch is a 2.8 mile loop where the most strenuous terrain is right away at the beginning. To descend into the gulch, you’ll walk over large boulders with handrails and go down stairs. All the while, water is rushing merrily alongside you. This is fairly steep, rough ground, but since you’re going down, it’s not too difficult for kids (people with poor balance or knee-replacement surgery may want to forgo this one).

 

The soaring granite walls alongside this section of the trail are magnificent, and everything is covered with moss. Once down in the gulch, you’ll cross and re-cross the stream several times, sometimes on small footbridges and other times on rocks. The rest of the trail isn’t flat, but probably only moderately steep in spots.

 

Kids seem to enjoy this trail a great deal, perhaps because of the running water which adds an element of interest, but also because it’s a loop and you don’t retrace your steps back over the same terrain.

 

Take plenty of water since by the time you walk along the lake to the trailhead, plus hike the gulch loop, you will have gone over three miles. Have some snacks as well, because there are many boulders and logs along the trail on which to take a break.

Hiking is not difficult, nor does it have to be an expensive endeavor. A few simple items make hiking with the family more enjoyable. I can’t count the times I’ve seen people hiking in flip flops or without any water. Injuring your feet or being thirsty are sure-fire ways to ruin the experience. So let’s go over the basics:

 Water: Everyone in your party should have water; a good rule of thumb is one quart for every hour spent hiking in hot weather. At least have a bottle of water per person! For people who intend to do a lot of hiking, consider a Camelbak, which is a water reservoir in a backpack. Kids can carry their own water more easily and drink directly from the attached hose. However, don’t think you must have one immediately and run right out and buy one – they’re an investment that’s worth it IF you go hiking often.

 Shoes: Hiking in flip flops and crocs is a good way to get an injury. Wear sturdy lace-up shoes and socks. You don’t have to have hiking boots; they can be expensive, and honestly, kids grow out of them so quickly they may only be able to wear them a few times. Tennis shoes are fine – just remember they’re not waterproof if you will be crossing streams. I wouldn’t recommend basketball shoes because they have very little traction and slip dangerously on rocks.

Now that we’ve covered the two most important points, there are a few other items that will make hiking more fun and safer for you and the kids.

 Snacks: Easily packed snacks make the difference between a fun outing and a whining/crying meltdown (hey – I’m talking about myself!). Nobody likes to hike hungry. Granola bars, cookies, trail mix, PB&J sandwiches, apples, and muffins are all easy to carry and don’t have to be kept cold. Just remember to pick up any trash.

 Other Stuff: A few small items can make a big difference!
• A small first aid kit with band aids, gauze padding, alcohol wipes, and antibiotic cream.
• A map of the area, the US Forest Service has free trail maps of all their major trails, check at any USFS information office. Custer State Park has a trail map in their Tatanka magazine, which you get at any park entrance. I get a couple of copies, tear the map out of one and put it in my pack.
• Sunscreen, chapstick, and bug repellent. You’re going to be outside for a few hours – it will come in handy. Keep in mind that these items can be shared by the whole group, and all of these can be fit into a small pack.

Now that the basics are covered, get out there!