One of many water crossings in the French Creek Natural Area

Located in the heart of Custer State Park, the French Creek Natural Area offers almost a backcountry hiking experience. I say “almost” because there is no marked trail through the natural area and only primitive forms of travelling are allowed, such as walking and horseback riding; however, it’s not so remote as to actually be backcountry.

The natural area is 2,200 acres and follows the stream; this affords great wildlife viewing opportunities and many different types of vegetation, including poison ivy. Of course, your wildlife viewing may come in the form of figuring out how to circumvent the park’s buffalo herd crossing the stream where you also intended to cross, so use caution.

Since it is the French Creek Natural Area, expect to cross the stream many times. I highly recommend water-resistant shoes as the creek is higher this year than in some previous years – many stepping stones are submerged. Furthermore, I find hiking poles are helpful in keeping my balance while negotiating water crossings.

Primitive camping is allowed in the natural area, but campfires are prohibited, so if you want hot food, pack a stove. The stream offers fresh water, but remember that a fair amount of wildlife as well as horseback riders frequent the area, so you’ll need some type of water purification system unless you pack in all your own water. Lastly, if you intend to camp you must register at the trailhead.

This is a 12-mile route in its entirety, but of course you don’t have to hike the whole length. If you do plan to hike through but not camp, start early in the day to avoid being on the trail after dark. Remember that the trail is not marked and there are many water crossings; hiking in the dark would be dangerous. In fact, the day before I hiked there this summer, two hikers had been lost because they started hiking at 4:30 p.m., intending to hike the whole thing and only wearing tennis shoes and shorts. Brrr!

You can start from the east end trailhead located four miles south of the State Game Lodge on the Wildlife Loop Road or the west end trailhead located three miles from Blue Bell Lodge on CSP Road #4 at the French Creek Horse Camp. Note that this this a Centennail Trail trailhead as well; once you’ve hiked north on the Centennial Trail about half a mile, you’ll come to a fork, take the right fork which heads east. There’s a sign that reads Trail #1, this is for horseback riders, turn there. Otherwise you’ll keep heading north on the Centennial Trail.

If you’re aiming to get off the beaten path, consider hiking Grizzly Bear Creek Trail #7 in the Black Elk Wilderness. We hiked it during the rallly since the trailhead is close to our home and is remote enough that tourists/casual hikers don’t really stumble upon it.

The trail follows the streambed with a gentle 1,500 elevation gain. While that may not sound gentle, keep in mind that this trail is 6.3 miles long, so it’s not terribly strenuous. There are several creek crossings but stepping stones were pretty handy. Wear bug repellent on this trail in the summer! Since we don’t have mosquitoes here at our house, we didn’t expect them on the trail, big mistake. Luckily I had some Avon sunscreen/bug repellent in my pack, so we were able to ward them off.

Since this trail is quite long, you need a plan before you decide to hike it. If you decide to hike its entirety, you’ll either need to return to your car the way you came, making for a 12.6 mile round-trip, or arrange to picked up at Sylvan Lake. We did the latter by leaving our car at Sylvan Lake early in the morning, while parking spots were still available, and then driving our other vehicle the few miles from our house to the trailhead. This made for about a 9-mile hike, but once you leave the Grizzly Bear Creek Trail to tie in with the Norbeck Trail and subsequently Harney Trail #4, there are steep climbs. Keep in mind that you will have already hiked over six miles, so you may be pretty tired by this point. If you’re not sure of your endurance, skip this one.

Another caveat: Don’t attemp to hike in this area without a map. This is wilderness; the trails are less traveled and there are fewer people. We hiked for hours without meeting another soul, so you cannot depend on asking directions if you aren’t sure where to go. Plus, tying in with other trails can be confusing and a wrong turn can result in getting lost. The Forest Service has a great map with these trails, “Black Elk Wilderness and Norbeck Wildlife Preserve Trail System;” you can pick it up at any Forest Service information office.

To get to the Grizzly Bear Creek Trail, take Highway 87 (Needles Highway) to Custer County Road 345; look for the sign that says Remington Horse Camp and turn east. The trailhead is a little over a mile up the road; you will have to register at the entrance to the wilderness area.

My thermometer recorded this morning’s low at 36 degrees; no, I haven’t transposed the numbers. Four degrees above freezing on July 30, I wasn’t amused. Though cold fronts are a bummer, there is a way to cope: layers. Our mothers always told us to dress in layers in the winter, and the same philosophy applies to being outdoors in the summer as well.

Whether backpacking, biking, hiking or just having a picnic, wearing layers can keep you warm when it’s cool and allow you to shed as the temperature climbs. I always start out with a tanktop as my base layer, then pull on a long-sleeved T-shirt. If it’s still chilly, I wear a jacket or hooded sweatshirt over the top of that. The sweatshirt can be tied around my waist or lashed to my pack; the T-shirt is usually small enough to fit inside the pack. When dressing in layers, you can keep the different articles of clothing lightweight. No need for a bulky coat, just a couple layers of lighter-weight material will do a better job of keeping warm without overheating.

For those variable-weather days, I also like hiking pants with zip-off legs, which convert from pants into shorts in seconds. If I’m hiking, I also keep a disposable rain poncho and extra socks in my pack. Remember that wet socks can give you blisters, so switching to a dry pair after being soaked in a rainstorm is a smart idea. Lastly, for those really chilly mornings, a beanie and gloves feel good and help you warm up faster.

In these hottest days of summer, it’s a good time to think about that most essential element: water. On nearly every hike I take, I notice people short on water, adults and children alike. Not only do people bring inadequate water for themselves, but also for their kids. Being thirsty is miserable; kids will remember that experience the next time their parents want to go hiking and they’ll balk. Aside from that, it’s dangerous.

Losing two quarts of body fluid without replacing it can reduce the body’s efficiency by 25 percent. Symptoms of dehydration are: dizziness, fatigue, a slowing pace, headache, fever, emotional upheaval, slurred speech, confusion, and sleepiness. A loss of 25 percent of the body’s fluid can be fatal, so taking enough water is not a joke.

On a hot day, the average person can lose up to two or three quarts of water per day; increased activity and higher temperatures can increase that amount. Being smaller, children lose less and require less water; however, that doesn’t mean a 12-ounce bottle of water will cut it.

So how much is enough? First of all, it depends on how long you’re hiking. I usually take two or three quarts for any hike longer than an hour. Yes, that means I usually have extra water, which is the point; I’d rather have extra that I can use to water my plants when I get home rather than run out and be thirsty on the trail. My daughter has a hydration pack that holds 64 ounces of water, or two quarts. We can always pack an extra bottle in our pack if we need to, or clip one to our belt loops, too. We don’t do this for an afternoon hike, but if I were taking a long hike through the Black Elk Wilderness, I would.

Finally, it’s important to be well-hydrated before you leave on your hike. This will ensure that the water you take lasts through the hike. This is especially important for children who may quickly feel thirsty when they begin strenuous activity. Making the outdoors fun means having the necessities of food and water available so everyone has a good, safe experience.

One of my favorite hikes in the Black Hills is also the most quiet, okay, deserted, which is why I love it. Maybe you’ve never heard of Hell Canyon, and if so, you’re not alone. I have never arrived at the trailhead with more than one other car in the parking lot. Since the trail is a loop, there’s a good chance that you won’t see anyone ahead or behind you even if they are on the trail at the same time. It’s fantastic.

Another reason I enjoy Hell Canyon is that its scenery is unlike most other trails; it’s in the Jasper Burn area west of Custer. Now some folks may be thinking, “I don’t want to hike in a burn area, it’s ugly.” They’d be wrong. The blackened, dead trees add an almost xeric feeling to the hike, and open up the view. Most of the hike is very out in the open, not shaded like many other Black Hills trails. Furthermore, with the trees gone, wildflowers flourish. This is the best trail I’ve found for wildflowers; even now, in mid-July there were many blooming. I’m still kicking myself for not getting out there two or three weeks ago when the wild roses must have been extravagant.

Hell Canyon Trail Number 32 is located about 14 miles west of Custer on Highway 16, past Jewel Cave. The trail is a 5.3 mile loop, and is moderately strenuous at the beginning. You’ll climb for about the first hour, depending on how fast you hike, then the trail levels out for awhile. For the return, you’ll descend to the canyon bottom, which is very level. For this leg of the hike, long pants are a good idea in the summer as the trail goes through tall grass and bushes, prime tick habitat. The whole trip takes 2 - 4 hours; my daughter and I hiked it yesterday in 2.5 hours, with several stops for flower photos.

For all of you who are loading backpacks and packing picnic lunches, I envy you. My weekend plans do include outside activity, but of the gardening kind. I love gardening too, checking out how nice the weather is going to be in the Hills the next few days, it still makes me a bit wistful that I’m going away instead of staying home.

A caveat about the weather, though. The temperatures are going to be quite warm, but there are thunderstorms forecast for both Saturday and Sunday, so plan accordingly. In the upper elevations, storms can pop up suddenly, taking you by surprise. The higher you are later in the afternoon, the better your chances of getting caught. Case in point: several years ago a nasty lightning storm hit just we reached the top of Crow Peak over by Spearfish. Those of you familiar with the mountain will know it’s not the best place to be during a storm, so we ended up running most of the way back down. The other storm that nailed us was after we’d climbed Harney Peak. Perfectly blue skies at the beginning, perfectly black clouds by the end. We made it to the car and almost to Hill City when the hail hit. That must have been a good year for body shops; we certainly did our part to boost their business.

The longer the hike, the earlier you should start. For a long hike such as Harney, or the Willow Creek trail to Harney, be sure to start before noon. If you can’t get on the trail before 1 p.m., wait until another day. Check the forecast before you go, and not just for home, but also for your destination. A rain jacket and extra socks are never a bad idea either, just in case.

Old juniper in Arches

Moab is in southeastern Utah, close to both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, and right on the Colorado River. We stayed at a campground north of town with a view of Arches and the La Sal Mountains. We were very happy to be outside of town since Easter weekend coincided with the annual Jeep Jamboree this year, so Moab was pretty packed. However, the parks weren’t tremendously crowded. And people willing to hike, like us, were able to get away from the most groups of people.

Arches National Park is fairly small in comparison to most parks we’ve visited. There’s really just one main road through the park with most hikes short and close to the road. Since the soil is so fragile, walking off the paths is strongly discouraged, though we noted footprints of many offenders. Two longer hikes I’d strongly recommend are Devil’s Garden and Tower Arch. Devil’s Garden is at the furthermost end of the road in the park. There is a 7.2-mile loop that you can do, but most people do only part of it, just up far enough to look at a few arches and then they leave the way they came. However, if you do the whole loop, you’ll have long stretches of trail to yourself. Less people meant more lizards, which our daughter appreciated. Coming from lizard-less Custer, they are rather a novelty.

The other trail, which we had nearly to ourselves, was Tower Arch, located on an unmarked road in the northwestern part of the park. This area is rarely frequented by most tourists, while it’s on the map, the road has no sign and is gravel, hence, most folks aren’t willing to drive on it. It was my favorite hike of the trip, quiet and fabulously scenic. 

In addition to hiking and taking photos, there was a lot to learn about the geology of the area. The primary rock types are Entrada and Navajo Sandstone. Entrada is the rosy rock while the Navajo is light tan; together they look like a layer cake.

Thunderstorm over Canyonlands

It was a fun, but fast, trip; we all agreed it had been too long since our last one. Our daughter fell in love with the desert and is eager to go back. Both my husband and I were gratified to see that we have raised a girl who was happy to go make-up and hair-appliance free for a few days and who was interested in the rock formations and lizards, not bored or disgusted. It was a great way to start our spring.

If you hadn’t already, this first blizzard probably prompted you to dig out those hats, gloves and boots. Once your back recovers from shoveling, you’ll have time to think about all the fun outdoor opportunities winter presents. Though we often associate winter with the drudgery of shoveling and cleaning up the snow we track into the house, there are enjoyable activities for you and the kids.

 

Sledding is, of course, top of the list. Maybe this first blizzard is an indication that we’ll have plenty of sledding weather this winter. When I was a kid, I remember sledding from November through March (or even April if we got a spring storm). However, my own daughter has had far fewer opportunities since we just didn’t have enough snow for several years. Sledding is inexpensive and a fabulous way to spend family time together in the winter. Dogs love sledding too!

 

Don’t discount winter hikes. You think you know the views of the Black Hills, but areas look different under a blanket of snow. The keys to enjoying a winter hike are to dress in layers; wear a hat as well as hiking boots with a good sole; take a walking stick if you have one, it can be helpful in keeping your footing; and avoid areas that can be dangerous in winter such as trails with steep drop-offs or in areas that are remote or closed off in winter. In addition to the extra clothing you should wear, take the rest of you would take on a summer hike – first aid kit, water, snacks, flashlight, etc. Remember that some Black Hills highways like the Needles Highway do not have winter maintenance and may even be closed. Also, be sure to tell someone where you’re going, and when you’ll be back. Plan for the early arrival of dusk – you don’t want to be an hour from the car at 5 p.m. When hiking in the winter it makes sense to take trails you’re familiar with already.

 

If you don’t feel up to a full-fledged hike, shorter walks near your home can be great of fun for you and the kids. Everything looks different in the winter, and sounds different after a snow. Looking for animal tracks in the snow is exciting for kids – mouse tracks are especially cute. For these shorter excursions, you can pack a thermos of hot chocolate and a “winter picnic.” Kids love picnics no matter the season.

 

If you have a fire pit or chimenea, stock up on firewood so you can roast marshmallows and hot dogs all winter. Campfires are magical in the winter; they’re almost more fun in the winter than summer because you appreciate the heat so much more!

 

Lastly, don’t forget to get those skates sharpened! I know the ice won’t be ready for quite a while yet, but having the skates ready will get you out on the ice faster when that time arrives.

 

Winter is here, might as well embrace it!

Today is the first day of fall, the autumnal equinox. There are two equinoxes per year, spring and fall. The changing of seasons to summer and winter are marked by solstices. During an equinox, the sun is directly over the equator, so day and night are equivalent. Now our daylight hours will shorten rapidly, and our nights lengthen until we hit the longest night of the year in December.

 

Now we modern people barely notice the changing of the seasons, only noting it if we happen to glance at a calendar. In ancient times, the fall equinox was celebrated with festivals. The Celts of Ireland, Wales and Britain celebrated the sabbat (festival) of Mabon during the equinox. Mabon was a Welsh god and the son of Modron, the great mother goddess. To the Celts, this was primarily a harvest festival. It wouldn’t hurt us to impart a little festivity into our lives at this time of year, and more importantly, see what’s happening in the natural world around us.

 

Part of spending more time outdoors is learning to be in tune with the seasons. See the leaves change color, watch for V’s of geese flying south, smell the crisp air. Fall is a wonderful time for hiking, camping, bird watching or lighting a fire in the fire pit.

If you’ve spent time in national forests or state parks, you’ve probably heard or read the phrase “Leave No Trace.” Oftentimes, there is little or no explanation of what that means to you as a hiker, picnicker, camper, hunter, fisher, etc. In actuality, Leave No Trace isn’t just a phrase; it’s also an organization.

 

The program is self-described as “a national and international program designed to assist outdoor enthusiasts with their decisions about how to reduce their impacts.” Leave No Trace tries to educate people about impacts on the outdoors and also how to mitigate them with easy-to-understand-and-implement techniques.

 

Leave No Trace has seven basic principles: Plan Ahead and Prepare, Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces, Dispose of Waste Properly, Leave What You Find, Minimize Campfire Impacts, Respect Wildlife, Be Considerate of Other Visitors. Basically, it’s common sense.

 

Plan Ahead and Prepare: You should know the regulations of the area before you start your hike, etc. For example, campfires may be banned due to fire danger; mountain bikes are not allowed in wilderness areas.

 

Travel and Camp Durable Surfaces: Don’t make new trails – use the ones that are there for human use. When camping, look for a good site rather than radically altering the land to pitch your tent, and camp at least 200 feet from lakes and streams.

 

Dispose of Waste Properly: This is a big one, and the one that most people violate. Pack out your trash! It’s a rare hike that I don’t end up picking up at least some type of wrapper left behind by another hiker. Teach children to do the same. Also, to minimize trash, pack appropriate foods; the forest isn’t where you should eat your Big Mac® with fries and Big Gulp drink. (Better yet, don’t eat them at all!)

 

Leave What You Find: Don’t haul away the forest with you, and don’t introduce non-native plant or animal species. Those flowers might look lovely in your yard, but they may be toxic to wildlife or so prolific that they eventually choke out other plants.

 

Minimize Campfire Impacts: Remember what Smokey says “only YOU can prevent forest fires.” Make sure campfires are allowed in the area before you start one, and then be sure to use a fire ring made from rocks; use only wood you can find lying on the ground and be sure to put it out completely before leaving.

 

Respect Wildlife: Don’t chase animals or try to sit children on the backs of elk or buffalo. Be especially considerate of animals with young ones; you don’t want strangers chasing your kids, right?

 

Be Considerate of Other Visitors: Remember that you’re not the only person out there. Please yield to others on the trail, and say “excuse me” when passing other hikers. Turn down the volume – hikers who are a quarter-mile away shouldn’t be able to hear your conversation. And lovebirds, if you must hold hands while hiking, please be aware of when people come up behind you on the trail and let them go by.

 

For more details on Leave No Trace, visit their website at www.lnt.org